Free Moccason Pattern

Knitted Moccasin Slippers

by Sue Norrad
CrochetandKnitting.com

These knitted slippers look small when they are not on a foot, so I took a picture of a slipper being worn. They are naturally stretchy.

The pattern provides instructions for small, medium and large sizes, but you can also adjust the pattern further to accomodate other sizes.

We also have a pattern for Crocheted Moccasin Slippers, again in a variety of sizes.

MATERIALS

Yarn: Use two strands of 4 ply worsted weight yarn. I'm not sure how much it takes as I bought 170 g skeins and had plenty of yarn leftover. I knit these slippers in two colors. Black for the sole and light blue for the rest of the slipper. You can make them all one color if you want.
Needles: Two 5mm needles. I used circular needles as I find them easier to work with. I used them the same way I would use the two long 5mm needles. But if you prefer using the two long needles, by all means do so.

SIZE: These will fit a foot of 9 1/2 inches. For every 1/2 inch larger add 4 stitches when you cast on. For every 1/2 inch smaller subtract 4 stitches when you cast on. I will have notes in blue on the pattern for where to add or subtract stitches for the different sizes. It will be listed as (S, L) - meaning Small size which is 1/2 inch smaller and L meaning 1/2 inch larger. For even smaller and larger sizes, just add or subtract sts from those sizes.

Please note: I have not tried to make these in different sizes. I am only going by my gauge, I think it should work out.

Gauge: 4 sts = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:

st - Stitch
K - Knit
P - Purl
K2tog - Knit 2 stitches together
P2tog - Purl 2 stitches together
inc st - Increase stitch. (I did my increases by picking up a loop between the stitches and putting it on my left needle, then knitting it.)

This pattern is worked in rows. When completed you will sew up the sole and the back of heel seam.

Important: The slippers are folded in half lengthwise when you are finished, so that is why the sole seems big at the start. Just continue working the pattern and when you get to the "Sides and Top", you will notice it taking shape and see where you sew the bottom seam and back of heel seam.

SOLE Of the Slipper:
Working with two strands of yarn held together, Cast on 52 sts. (48, 56)
Rows 1, 2 - K
Row 3 - K1, inc. st, K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K2, inc. st., K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K1 - (56 sts) (52, 60)
Rows 4, 5 - K
Row 6 - K1, inc. st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K2, inc st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K1 - (60 sts) (56, 64)
Rows 7, 8 - K
Row 9 - K1, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K2, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K1 - (64 sts) (60, 68)
Rows 10, 11 - K
Row 12 - K1, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K2, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K1 - (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 13 - K33 (29, 37), inc st, K2, inc st, K33 (29, 37) - (70 sts) (66, 74)

SIDES and TOP of the slipper:
Change colors here if you are using two colors.
Rows 14, 15, 16, 17 - K
Row 18 - K31 (29, 33), K2tog, K4, K2tog , K31 (29, 33) - (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 19 - K30 (28, 32), K2tog, P4, K2tog, K30 (28, 32) - (66 sts) (62, 70)
Row 20 - K28 (26, 30), K2tog, K6, K2tog, K28 (26, 30) - (64 sts) (60, 68)
Row 21 - K27 (25, 29), K2tog, P6, K2tog, K27 (25, 29) - (62 sts) (58, 66)
Row 22 - K25 (23, 27), K2tog, K8, K2tog, K25 (23, 27) - (60 sts) (56, 64)
Row 23 - K24 (22, 26), K2tog, P8, K2tog, K24 (22, 26) - (58 sts) (54, 62)
Row 24 - K22 (20, 24), K2tog, K10, K2tog, K22 (20, 24) - (56 sts) (52, 60)
Row 25 - K21 (19, 23), K2tog, P10, K2tog, K21 (19, 23) - (54 sts) (50, 58)
Row 26 - K19 (17, 21), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K19 (17, 21) - (52 sts) (48, 56)
Row 27 - K18 (16, 20), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K18 (16, 20) - (50 sts) (46, 54)
Row 28 - K17 (15, 19), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K17 (15, 19) - (48 sts) (44, 52)
Row 29 - K16 (14, 18), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K16 (14, 18) - (46 sts) (42, 50)
Row 30 - K1, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K5, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K1 - (41 sts) (37, 45)
Row 31 - K13 (11, 15), K2tog, K11, K2tog, K13 (11, 15) - (39 sts) (35, 43)
Cast off. Sew up seams.

Contributed by Sue's Crochet and Knitting site, which offers Free Crochet and Knit Patterns, a Craft Discussion Board, Craft Supplies and much more.

Free Sewing Pattern

I came across this pattern and thought I would share. I will try and post new patterns weekly or any other cool craft I come across!

How to make a Placemat Purse
	Finished Placemat Purse Handbags are hot! With just a little effort and imagination, you can create a one-of-a-kind, portable work of art.
Transform a basic household placemat from a flat, two-dimensional table covering to a hip and imaginative fashion accessory. The wonderful thing about placemat purses is the sheer variety of materials available: ribbed cotton, vinyl, tapestry, microfiber, straw, faux leather, brocade, novelty weaves and more. Oval, rectangular and octagonal shapes create an instant variety of purse shapes to choose from.
You will need: 1 Fabric Placemat 1/2 yard of Lightweight Fabric for Lining 1/2 yard of Fusible Craft Interfacing (optional) Pair of Handbag Handles (wood, plastic, leather, etc.)
Step 1: If the placemat requires a bit more body, cut fusible interfacing to the size of the placemat, less 1/2 ” all around. Center the interfacing over the wrong side of the placemat and fuse, following manufacturer’s directions.
TIP: If you want to add even more personality, you can embellish the placemat with appliqués, beads, embroidery or rhinestones. If you are sewing on your embellishments, the best time to do this is before attaching the lining, so all any stitching on the wrong side of the placemat will be covered by the lining.
Step 2: For handle tabs, cut four pieces of lining fabric, each measuring 3” long by 1 1/2” wide. Fold each piece in thirds, lengthwise; adjust the final width of the tabs to fit through handle rings. Stitch lengthwise through all thicknesses down the center of each tab.
Step 3: Slip a tab through each handle ring; with raw edges of the tabs even, stitch across the tabs 1/2” from raw edges.
Step 4: Center each handle along the short sides of the placemat, with tabs against the wrong side of the placemat. Place tabs so that raw edges extend 1/2” in from edge of placemat. Stitch across tabs to attach them to placemat. Stitch again to reinforce.
Step 5: Cut lining fabric to the size of the placemat. Turn under 1/4” on all sides of the lining, and press in place.
TIP: To add a handy inside pocket or two, cut pocket(s) from the lining fabric, approximately 5” X 5” square. Turn under 1/2” on each side, and top stitch in place. Position the pocket on the right side of the lining as desired; sew along the sides and bottom of the pocket.
Step 6: Position the lining, right side up, over the wrong side of the placemat and covering extended edges of tabs. Stitch the lining to the placemat along all edges, close to the pressed edge of the lining. You can use either machine stitching or invisible hand stitches, depending on your preference.
Step 7 - to Create a Purse with Squared-Off Corners: Fold placemat in half, with right sides together. Sew sides with a 5/8” seam allowance. To create the width at the bottom of the purse, flatten the bottom corners, centering the side seams. Turn handbag right-side-out, and you’re ready to go!
Step 7 - to Create a Flat Purse with Pre-Bound Edges: For this style, use a placemat with pre-bound, finished edges. Fold placemat in half, with wrong sides together. Sew sides with a 1/2” to 5/8” seam allowance, depending on the width of the placemat binding, so that stitching is at the inner edge of the binding.
TIP: If desired, finish the purse with a closure of Velcro, a button and tab loop or handbag snap.